Malaysia’s new wave chefs drive Kuala Lumpur’s culinary boom

When Zack Sze left for Hong Kong four years ago, Kuala Lumpur’s fine dining scene was rather predictable, dominated by familiar culinary trends that offered little in terms of innovation.

Back then, molecular gastronomy and deconstructed dishes were limited to a highly exclusive clientele, with most diners still bound by Western traditional tastes of what constituted a fancy meal – typically meticulously prepared French dishes, elegantly plated and paired with expensive wines.

But when Sze moved back earlier this year, he found an entirely different landscape – a vibrant scene driven by the adventurous new tastes of young Malaysians and bursting with restaurants and pop-ups offering an astonishing variety of food by local chefs, all showcasing their own unique interpretations of Malaysian food and flavours.

“I was shocked. Four years ago, where was all this?” Sze said over a serving of hanwoo beef tartare flavoured with sambal hijau, a local chilli condiment typically served at Malay homes and restaurants.

Malaysia is now moving up the food chain, and competing with its neighbours – Singapore, Thailand, and Vietnam – for Michelin recognition and the wave of enthusiastic tourists that the acclaimed badge can bring.

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