Why are Hong Kong eateries selling ‘poor man’s meals’ bucking closure trend?

Eateries specialising in what were once known as “poor man’s meals” and which typically operated in Hong Kong’s lower-income neighbourhoods are now bucking the local trend of closing restaurants, with many chains now expanding across the city.

One expansive player is Kuen Fat Kitchen, which recently came under the spotlight for spending HK$180,000 (US$22,900) a month on renting a 372 square metre space on the touristy Humphreys Avenue in Tsim Sha Tsui for what the company has called the city’s largest two-dish-rice restaurant.

It is set to become Kuen Fat’s fifth branch, joining others in Causeway Bay, Yau Ma Tei, Kwun Tong and Jordan.

“This-this rice has become a habit of Hongkongers, like how they frequent cha chaan teng,” said Kitty Chan, a Kuen Fat person-in-charge, referring to Hong Kong-style cafes. “The dining routine has really changed since the government’s Covid policies.”

Such chains are known for serving no-frills dishes and are sometimes called “this-this rice” servings as customers order two to three of their stir-fried Cantonese favourites with a generous serving of rice, all for around HK$30 or more.

The format became popular in Hong Kong in 2022 when the government banned restaurant dining after 6pm for more than four months during the Covid-19 pandemic.